In pursuit of a dream to explore the remote kingdom of Lo Manthang, this biker faced daunting challenges, from treacherous terrain to bone-chilling cold. Yet, the journey's true essence lay in the benevolence of the Nepalese people, who radiated warmth and resilience despite the harshest conditions, leaving an indelible mark on the traveler's heart and imparting invaluable life lessons.
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Ride To Lo Manthang - An Adventure Turns Into A Life Lesson
Travel is something that didn’t attract me naturally. It’s something that happened by coincidence and something one can’t script, just like your first crush. But unlike the many unfulfilled dreams that you dreamt with your crush, with travel you can execute them. One of my long standing dreams was to visit the forbidden kingdom of Lo Manthang (Upper Mustang). It was a small kingdom between the Nepal and Tibet (now China) border and was isolated from modern civilization for many decades and a few centuries.
There were two key reasons for me to make this journey – being a biker, I had heard many stories how difficult the terrain is and the second was to experience Lo Manthang before it gets commercialised, a bane of modern capitalization. With all the necessary documents submitted and my permits acquired I made my way to Pokhara. As I rode further, urbanisation took a back step and all I could see were towering mountains and valleys. The roads too were deteriorating at a faster pace than Venezuelan currency and I was getting my first taste of adventure. A puncture in the middle of nowhere delayed my proceedings and that meant I would have to enter Lower Mustang in the night. The roads were treacherous, there was no visibility and to make matters worse was the cloud of dust that not only hampered my vision but also made breathing difficult.
At moments like these, you start questioning yourself, why am I doing this, why am I risking my life, why am I not in the comfort of my home? But then as I parked my motorcycle, lit a cigarette, and looked at the night sky filled with bright shining stars, I had got my answer. It was freedom from the mundane and to experience something new and exciting. With sheer luck and a bit of stubbornness, I somehow managed to reach my hotel by close to midnight. I woke up late given the fatigue, but the glimpse of the snow-capped Himalayas was enough to extinguish all my worries.
As I rode deeper into the mountains, the terrain became even more daunting and I was presented with an array of challenges such as loose gravel, water crossings, boulders, uneven surfaces and what not. You were confronted by the roads every few 100 metres and this was a true test for any biker. I did fall a few times but all these falls for me were new learnings and I was relishing this challenge. The final stage was the toughest as the climb was very steep and crosswinds were so hard that it seemed as if I was pushing my motorcycle uphill and not riding it. To make matters worse it started raining and the cold was bone-chilling.
My fingers were getting numb, I was breathing heavily and my vision was disorienting, it seemed my dream was fading. At this moment I also realised how our mind controls our body and the importance of mental strength. I kept reminding myself why this journey is important and quitting isn’t even an option. With some self motivation and a lot of flavourful abusive words, I was able to ride on and by evening, I was in Lo Manthang.
I toured the quaint small hamlet and it seemed as if I had time-travelled a few centuries back. The houses were made of mud and wood, while the streets were cobbled. The stupas were beautiful and the small market in the town centre was cute. Men were busy smoking and enjoying an intense game of carrom, while the kids were busy laughing and running around. One kind gentleman invited me into his abode and it was so beautiful and simple, the rooms were lit up with oil lamps and he had a great collection of stone jewellery which he said was made using stones from Tibet. And then he took me to the roof of his house which had more flex than an Instagram influencer but the view was beautiful.
While I thought the raw beauty of Lo Manthang or the beautiful vistas on my way to the destination or even the challenging terrain was the highlight of my trip, it was something else. It was the benevolent Nepalese people that I met on my trip that left an edible mark on my heart. Their hospitality is impeccable and the warmth of their friendship is something that I will forever cherish.
For a lad from Mumbai it was a reality check, these people live in one of the most inhospitable terrain known to mankind, supplies are limited and running water along with electricity is a luxury. Despite all these adversities, they have a smile on their face and a zeal for life that is unmatched. This one motorcycle trip to the forbidden kingdom taught me so many life lessons that not only made me a better human being, but more importantly taught me to be obligated for all the pain and pleasures of life. While I had set out for adventure, what I had achieved in the end was sheer happiness and gratefulness.
Written by: Arun Mohan Nadar
Arun is a petrolhead who turned his passion into profession. He’s been a automotive journalist for over a decade and currently is the Bike Editor at ACKO Drive. Apart from two-wheels, Arun is a certified foodie and loves to travel.
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